Hedgerows are one of the most important habitats for wildlife, and with correct management will support a good variety of birds, small mammals, insects and plants. Ideally the hedge should be thick and bushy as this type has been shown to house up to six times as many birds as thin straggly hedges. Hedgerow shrubs such as hawthorn and bramble will provide fruits for food. The hedge-margin, if well maintained, will encourage ground-nesting birds such as partridge. It will also be an ideal habitat for many species of insects, which are both food for the birds and often predators of pests.

Established Hedges
Hedges should be cut in winter, ideally in early February. Hedge maintenance should be avoided between March and July when birds may be nesting as it is illegal to intentionally damage or destroy the nest of any wild bird. It is also best to avoid the autumn as many bushes are in fruit providing valuable food for birds. As fruit is usually borne on last year's growth it is better to cut hedges only every other year. Alternatively, cut one side one year and the other side the next.

If possible, allow some trees to develop as standards at about 5 to 10 metre intervals. Birds can use these
as song perches. Ash, oak and hornbeam are especially good. Oak, in particular, is home to an enormous number of insects.

An A-shaped hedge (see diagram opposite) provides maximum protection for wildlife, but alternative shaping may be needed in different environments. Do keep it wide enough to shelter and protect birds' nests.

If the hedge network is extensive a flail may be the most efficient way to cut. However, the flail should not be used on branches which are more than 2 cm in diameter (about the thickness of your thumb), as this tends to tear branches. Tearing branches may encourage diseases and wounds take longer to heal. It is also important to keep the flail sharp for an effective cut.

Hedge Margins
If possible leave a wide undisturbed margin adjacent to the hedge, ideally at least 2m wide. It can left to regenerate naturally or can be sown with a mixture of grass and wild flower seeds. Pollen and nectar encourage insects, and the plants conceal the base of the hedge which can then provide a home and a run for small mammals. The margins should have an annual cut in August after the flower heads have dropped their seeds.

Renovating Hedges
If a hedge is very straggly or overgrown more drastic measures, as described below, may be needed.

Coppicing
Coppicing involves rejuvenating hedges by cutting down stems to near ground level. This encourages vigorous regrowth. Coppicing is best done in sections in order to reduce the impact on the wildlife the hedge supports.

During the winter, cut back the main stem to just above ground level. Cut at an angle to allow the water to run off.

In the spring several shoots will grow up, thus thickening the hedge.

These young shoots may be grazed by deer, rabbits etc. so it may be necessary to protect the shoots with netting or brash until fully established.

To thicken the hedge cut shoots again at the end of the second winter, making the cut at about 45 cms from the base of the shoot.

Elm Hedges
Many mature elm trees have died as a result of Dutch Elm Disease. This disease is carried by the Elm Bark Beetle which burrows beneath the bark of trees which are 10 or more years old. If elm hedges are coppiced in sections on an 8 or 9 year rotation the growth of vigorous suckers will occur and the disease can be avoided.

Hedge Laying
This is a traditional and very effective means of making a fine hedge, but needs skilled training to do effectively. It is best done to improve thin straggly hedges in which the individual shoots are 2.5 to 5m in height and about 5 to 10 cms in diameter.

Side branches are cut off the stems. The stems, or pleachers, are then cut almost through at the base, and bent over to lie horizontally.
Stakes, which could be the previously cut side branches, are knocked into the ground at about 2m intervals and the pleachers are woven between them.

Side branches grow out of the pleachers and make a dense hedge. It may be necessary to fence initially with netting to prevent animals eating the new growth.

Brash
Careful thought should be given to the disposal of the branches removed during coppicing etc. Brash can sometimes be used to create a barrier to prevent grazing of young hedges. Otherwise it is best to remove off-site or to shred. Burning may well damage other habitats and the wildlife they contain.

New Hedges and Gapping-Up
Gaps often occur in hedges. As a continuous hedge acts as a better wildlife corridor it is worth 'gapping up' by establishing new plants. If the gaps are caused by shade from over hanging trees consider planting shade-tolerant species like holly or blackthorn. Further benefits to wildlife can be created by planting new native hedges that link existing hedgerows and semi-natural habitats. For detailed information on planting new hedges please refer to our Hedgerow Planting factsheet.

Suffolk Wildlife Trust is happy to offer advice on all aspects of habitat management.

For further information please contact Suffolk Wildlife Trust, Brooke House, Ashbocking, Ipswich, IP6 9JY , telephone 01473 890089 or e-mail us at wildline@suffolkwildlifetrust.org